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WTS: Arcade Boards: MvC2, 3rd Strike, CPS2 (MSH, XvSF, VS, NW, Xmen:COTA) MVS

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Hello all. I'm selling various boards & kits for games that I particularly don't need anymore.


3rd Strike (CD rom drive included) 475$
MvC2 (2 copies) (naomi included) 250$
UMK3 225$
Strikers 1945 II 140$

CPS2 B boards:
MSH 60$
XvSF 100$
Vampire Savior (sound issue: plays wrong sound effects) 125$
Night Warriors
X Men COTA
2 A boards


MVS Carts
Aero Fighters 2
Samurai Shodown V 25$
Last Blade
Puzzle Bobble
Metal Slug 3
Metal Slug X 40$


I'll consider any fair market offer (Hint: check eBay and Neo Geo), feel free to ask questions in this thread or email me at RVAtournaments@gmail.com.

I have a pretty positive reputation in the community (used to run Civil War) , and I'll back and test anything before I sell and ship it.

Thanks!


PS: If you want to make a slightly above market offer, I could be persuaded to let go of CvS2, A2, AVP, or Super Turbo, but as of now those aren't on the market.

Local (Baltimore, MD) WTS two Asus VE228H, one PS4 MKX Fightpad, and more.

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I'm located in Baltimore, Maryland and I prefer to do local sells at Xanadu games. Like the title says, I'm selling the following:

Two Asus VE22EH Monitors - They come in the original box with a power cord and hdmi cable and dvi cable: $100 each

One MKX PS3/PS4 fightpad - Still in the box used: $20 ea.

Two Hori Fighting Commanders 4 controllers - Both are used: $25 ea.

Four Soldered Hori Fighting Commanders 4 pcbs: $15 ea.

Four Soldered Xbox MKX pcbs: $15 ea.

Bloodbourne PS4: $25

Madcatz TE 360 main pcb: $10

Madcatz SFXT XBOX360 VS Edition Fightstick - Comes with Silver Aluminum Anti-Slip Joystick Case Feet: $120

Hori Hayabusa Joystick: $20

Best Ultimate Tech Talk Hang Out Loud Edition Season V

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The Introduction thread got stale. Let's try this again.

1. Stay on subject.

2. Do not ask for help.

Lessons learned from AkihabaraShop:

An LS-55 spring magically fixes the JLF for me. It also turns into a solid stick for shmups. It was an obscure reference I caught in another post. I'm guessing most people would call it too tight. It's tighter than both my LS-32 and LS-56. Has anyone else tried this? Thoughts?

The LB-45 (large balltop) is insanely huge. I'd be curious to know if anyone regularly uses one and how you grip it. I had to use the 'grip of doom' which is the equivalent of shifting a gear on a manual transmission.

The LB-30 (small balltop) is comical looking but I actually liked the thing. It feels like it gives you extra precision in shmups. I left it on my LS-32 for now. It's a little too clumsy to use for fighters.

Gogogo.

The PC gaming Thread. Steam/GOG/Origin/Etc. Game/Software/Hardware talk.

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So I recently got a gaming pc and im loving steam lately. Ive been playing a lot of Portal 2, Left 4 Dead 2 and Borderlands. Ive only had my pc for about 3 months but due to the awsomeness that is Steam I have picked up about 20 or 25 games since then. The only problem I have is I dont have any motherfuckin' friends to play that shit with. It gets lonely by yourself.

So if you play shit on Steam post in here, talk about games you're playing, rant about games you're playing, post them deals and just make some friends for that shit. Good times!

http://www.joystiq.com/2011/05/19/super-street-fighter-4-arcade-edition-coming-to-steam/

Steam deal right now is Worms Reloaded for 9.99. Im not into that so its not something im interested in but someone else might be.

Edit - Oh yeah, my Steam I.D. is...you guessed it, Drizzt519.

p.s. if there is a thread like this im sorry. I did a search and looked through like 5 pages but didnt find nothing but the TF2 thread. And most of them motherfuckers that post in that thread aint ever playing that shit.

The Super Inevitable Street Fighter V Story Thread: New Generation

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The other thread was spontaneously deleted ( revenge will be mine @vasili10 ) so let us restart the discussion here!

Akuma didn't kill Bison, Zangief is gay, Q is David, Monitor cyborgs are real, and Poison is a man! GO!

Ultra Street Fighter 4 PC Custom Skin Thread

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This thread is for the discussion and submission of skins/mods for Ultra Street Fighter 4. There is another thread for technical discussion (how to mod, new techniques, etc.; particular focus on gameplay/moveset modding).

As before, DLC unlocks/workarounds will NOT be discussed and no nudity will be tolerated (c'mon guys, this is a family forum) under penalty of banhammer.

Submissions posted in this thread will be copied to the USF4 Modding Wiki for better organization.

If there's a vanilla mod you would like to see in Ultra, please don't request for someone to convert it for you. Just do it yourself. It's easy.

UPDATE: For beginners, this page will get you started on what files go where when applying mods.

Most importantly: BACKUP YOUR ORIGINAL FILES BEFORE DOING ANY MODDING, FFS.

UPDATE2: Please don't quote images. It's in the rules for the site and it muddies up the thread.

UPDATE3 (08/08/2014): Ultra-specific content starts on pg 290. Everything before that is AE.

Korean arcade parts discussion

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Introduction Post

I admit I haven't have experience with Korean arcade parts, but I start a loose guide listing of what I do know and let people discus about Korean parts and maybe we can build up a half descent database.
I will reference the old THE ULTIMATE KOREAN ARCADE PART FAQ!! to flesh thing thread out.
What was noticed in the Tech Talk community is that many of the old Korean arcade part threads are dead and many threads have broken images, broken links, out of date and inactive.

Special thanks to (but not limited to) the following forum members (in no particular order) who ether helped me directly or those who contributed to older threads (even indirectly) which I tried to use to build this one.
d3v, slaycruz, armi0024, Upas, laugh, Takahashi, deadfrog, kowal, Moonchilde, hibachifinal, kkolding, Fearless, el greco,

Brook Announces 5 in 1 Universal Fighting Board

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Hi Everyone,

I have been given the honor to announced that Paradise Arcade Shop, Arcade Shock and Jasen Hicks have teamed up with the Brook team to create the controller PCB of our dreams: The 5 in 1 Universal Fighting Board.

Features:
- Auto-Detects PS3, PS4, XBOX360, XBOXONE, & PC (XINPUT)
- No 8-Minute Time-Out on PS4
- Screw Terminals for easy wiring and installation
- Firmware Updatable via USB
- Stick can be mapped to DP, LS, RS
- SOCD Cleaner
- TP Key, L3, R3 Buttons Available
- Turbo Support
- LED functions

Technical Specs & Performance tests via TheSuperGun.com:
http://www.thesupergun.com/electrical/brook-universal-fighting-board-technical-findings/

w8lqB2X.jpg

noQAUyp.png

qYDiGvx.png

qBHNomy.png

Prototype board Installed into my TE2:

rzGvAVC.jpg



One again, huge thanks to the team from Brook, Paradise Arcade Shop, Arcadeshock, and Jasen Hicks for making this a reality.

To kick it off @Jasen Hicks will be giving away his Classic Panzer Case with a 5 in 1 board installed! Please see his Facebook page for details!

image

DOA5 Ultimate/Last Round Thread

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There is no detail on whether this game will be another update which will be a disk release of if it'll be a patch for the current DOA5. But all I know is that this will be available for PS3 and Xbox 360 and there is a certain new girl that people might know who is in it and a new stage. More info on this comming soon

image

Ken Thread

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what do you guys think, I think his moves and what not look cool; I just think he looks really bad, whats up with his face and the clothes looks like they're trying to appease to zelda fans

Magic the Gathering Thread

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Since somebody screwed up my other thread and the other thread has over 130 pages. Here's the new thread to kickoff the 20th anniversary of Magic. Preppy can you delete my other thread or something? Let me start off by:

This is GDLK

Image.ashx?multiverseid=370670&type=card

Image.ashx?multiverseid=46741&type=card

Also, I just realized that the Staff of the Magus cards have the mana symbols on top of them...

Image.ashx?multiverseid=370592&type=card

Image.ashx?multiverseid=370635&type=card

Image.ashx?multiverseid=370676&type=card

Image.ashx?multiverseid=370625&type=card

Image.ashx?multiverseid=370586&type=card

Brook Announces PS3/PS4 "Fightboard" PCB

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Hey Everyone,

Brook just announced a new 40mm x 40mm Square PCB called the "Fight Board". Myself and few SRK tech talk members had some early access to the board and have been testing it for the past few weeks. With the help of our feedback they are ready for retail production and will be available through Brook's retail channels worldwide later this month (November 2015) at around $40 (US).

tUFSXnj.jpg

Features:
- Auto detects PS3 and PS4
- No 8 Minute Timeout on PS4
- SOCD Cleaner
- Firmware Updatable
- Optional Access to Turbo, Analog Controls (via firmware Update), TouchPad & Touchpad button, & LEDs.
- Common Ground

fD9AyRG.jpg

*One thing to note is that It requires soldering to access the inputs and does not come with screw terminals. So break out those irons...

As far as initial performance goes myself and @wazwuz have found the board to perform slightly faster or atleast equal to a FC4 pad hacked board. We will be testing further and with more detail when the retail firmware is available.

Brook via @gogo.zippy will be closely monitoring this thread throughout its initial release and as always will be available for questions and feedback.

Definitive Retail Playstation 4 Arcade Sticks List with Info/Facts/Photos/Advantages/Disadvantages

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IMPORTANT INFORMATION

This list will be incomplete for at least a decade. If you have information we are missing, please provide it for the sake of all who can utilize this info.
This is not a tier list. Learn from the information and use it to your advantage.

and please don't image quote.

If you have general arcade stick questions, please ask in the "Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)" thread
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/194283/absolute-question-and-answer-thread-v-3-ask-your-questions-here/p1

If you desire information on other arcade sticks that are not listed here please visit the "What Stick/Controller Should I Buy? Read the Guide on Pg 1 Before Posting." thread
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/137321/what-stick-controller-should-i-buy-read-the-guide-on-pg-1-before-posting/p1







LIST OF ARCADE STICKS IN ORDER OF WHICH THEY APPEAR BELOW

=Hori BlazBlue Chrono Phantasma Extend Arcade Stick
=Hori Fighting Stick Mini 4
=Hori RAP 4 Premium VLX Kuro
=Hori Dead or Alive 5 Last Round (Grouped with RAP 4 Kai and RAP.V Hayabusa sticks due to same/similar base/parts despite not holding the RAP name)
=Hori RAP 4 Kai
=Hori RAP 4 Kai Silent
=Hori RAP.V Hayabusa
=Hori RAP.V Hayabusa (v2)
=Hori RAP.V Silent Hayabusa
=Hori RAP.V Silent Hayabusa (v2)
=Hori RAP.V4
=Hori RAP.V4 Silent
=Mad Catz Alpha Street Fighter V
=Mad Catz TE2 Standard
=Mad Catz TE2 Guilty Gear Xrd -SIGN-
=Mad Catz TE2 Persona 4 Arena Ultimax
=Mad Catz TE2 Ultra Street Fighter IV
=Mad Catz TE2 Ultra Street Fighter IV Rivals
=Mad Catz TE2 Street Fighter V Chun-Li
=Mad Catz TE2+ Street Fighter V Ryu
=Mad Catz TES+ Street Fighter V Shadowloo
=Sanwa/Arc System Works Guilty Gear Xrd -SIGN- Arcade Stick
=Venom/Mayflash Arcade Stick







+ Is a positive feature
- Is a negative feature
= Is neutral or general information








Categories-Hori.png



Hori-BBCPE-01.png
Hori BlazBlue Chrono Phantasma Extend Arcade Stick
Spoiler:

More images (Promo/Stock/BoxFront/BoxBack/Bottom/Interior)-
Spoiler:
Hori-BBCPE-02.png
Hori-BBCPE-03.png
Hori-BBCPE-04.png
Hori-BBCPE-05.png
Hori-BBCPE-06.png
Hori-BBCPE-07.png
Hori-BBCPE-08.png
Hori-BBCPE-09.png

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195201/new-hori-blazblue-stick

Release Date-
=Early to Mid 2015 (Unsure of exact month)

Case-
-Hori budget stick case (Same as Fighting Stick V3)
=Width = 335mm, Depth = 230mm, Height (including lever) = 110mm
=Weight (1.5kg)
-No touchpad
-No cord compartment

Metal Panels-
=Top metal panel (standard)
-No bottom metal panel

Plexi/Art-
=Licensed artwork for BlazBlue Chrono Phantasma Extend
=No default plexi
=Plexi options will not likely be available for this stick via 3rd party plexi providers
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Small rubber feet
-No padding

Joystick-
-Hori generic joystick listed on Japanese website as "Standard Lever"
-Joystick has individual microswitches not a PCB with 5pin connector
-Difficult to change lever out to Sanwa/Seimitsu without heavy modification detailed HERE on V3 stick with same base
=PCB may have pin connector for Hayabusa/Sanwa/Seimitsu 5 pin connector (unconfirmed)

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro Buttons

PCB-
=Insufficient information
=PCB may have pin connector for Hayabusa/Sanwa/Seimitsu 5 pin connector (unconfirmed)
=PCB may have pin connector for touchpad (unconfirmed)

Wiring-
=Quick disconnects for buttons and joystick directionals
-Below average wiring (Detailed below)
-No pin headers/connectors for any directionals or action buttons. Wires are soldered into thru hole and glued in place

USB Cable-
=Cable Length (3m)

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
-PCB needs testing and comparison to existing Hori PCBs










Hori-FightingStickMini4-01.png
Hori Fighting Stick Mini 4 for PS4/PS3
Spoiler:
SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/204975/hori-fighting-commander-ps3-ps4-pc-xinput-fighting-stick-mini-4-with-hayabusa-like-joystick

More images (Promo/Stock)-
Spoiler:
Hori-FightingStickMini4-02.png
Hori-FightingStickMini4-03.png
Hori-FightingStickMini4-04.png

Release Date-
=December 2015

SRK Front Page article -
http://shoryuken.com/2015/11/20/hori-fighting-stick-mini-4-now-available-through-arcade-shock

Case-
-Hori Mini Case (New/Original Design)
=Weight (1 lb)
=Dimensions (7 x 4.8 x 9 inches)
=8 button design
-No touchpad (Assumption based on stock photos and price)
-No cord compartment (Assumption based on stock photos)

Metal Panels-
=Insufficient information
-No metal panels (Assumption based on stock photos and price)

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options will not likely be available for this stick via 3rd party plexi providers

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Insufficient information
-No rubber feet (Assumption based on stock photos)

Joystick-
=Insufficient information
-Budget Hori joystick (Assumption based on price)

Buttons-
=Insufficient information
-Budget Hori buttons (Assumption based on price)

PCB-
=Insufficient information

Wiring-
=Insufficient information

USB Cable-
=Wired

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
-PCB needs testing and comparison to existing Hori PCBs










Hori-HRAP4VLX-01.png

Hori RAP4 Premium VLX
- Real Arcade Pro 4 Premium VLX Kuro for PS4 & PS3
Spoiler:

More images (Promo/Stock/Box/Top/Interior/Mods/PCB)-
Spoiler:
Hori-HRAP4VLX-02.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-03.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-04.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-05.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-06.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-07.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-08.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-09.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-10.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-11.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-12.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-13.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-14.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-15.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-16.png
Hori-HRAP4VLX-17.png

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195793/the-hori-ps4-vlx-thread

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Case-
Hori VLX Case (Same as VLX models for PS3/360)
=Sizes - Width = 570mm, Depth = 260mm, Height (including lever) = 140mm
=Weight (5.4kg/11.9lbs)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
+Touch panel is present
=Has cord compartment but door is flimsy as usual with all sticks

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
+Replacement metal panels will be offered via @Jasen Hicks of Jasen's Customs

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=Plexi option is difficult for 3rd party plexi providers to provide due to the dimensions/size of the panel. May be offered by @Jasen Hicks in the future

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Padding
=Does not include the bonus stability base previously provided with the first 2 runs of VLX Premium sticks

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons

PCB-
=Common ground PCB but needs diodes in order to multi-mod. A step by step how to was done by @yoooooon - I've resized/rehosted the images for backup/archive purposes and the details can also be seen in the below spoiler tag-
Spoiler:
yoooooon wrote: »
Hi guys,

I finally got around to dual modding this for Xbox 360. Man, it's a pain in the ass.

Here's some things to keep in mind if you give this a shot.

1. As mentioned previously, you'll need diodes. I found a suggestion somewhere on SRK saying to use 1N914B diodes, which I bought 300 on eBay for like $8 dollars. Try to avoid overpaying for them since you need at least 15 for one dual mod. Here's an example of ones I've used and they've worked. Someone may have better suggestions. Here's a pic of the pack I bought.
Hori-HRAP4VLX-DualMod01.png

2. The anode (side without the line marker) needs to go towards the hori pcb, and the cathode (the side with the marker) needs to go to a central barrier strip. You'll need I believe 15 of these wires with the diode in line. I would suggest not putting the diode in the middle of the wire and towards one of the sides so that when you cover it up, you'll know the orientation by the placement of the diode. Here's a pic of one I made.
Hori-HRAP4VLX-DualMod02.png

3. Here's how the PCB works. I did this from memory so I need to double check this, but I believe it's correct. One thing to note, the row of pins that are closer to the middle are the signal lines (the points at which you use your diode wires), the grounds and other wires you will not need wires with diodes. Back and PS home you will need diode wires. (Those might be reversed in the picture, but I'm sure it's those two pins.)
Hori-HRAP4VLX-DualMod03.png

4. Instead of wiring to the pins on the PCB, I used a 30-pin header to wire to instead. I personally try to do minimal mods to the actual stick so everything can be reversed back to stock if need be. I know, weird. Here's a sample of what it looks like. I had to use an exacto knife to get this one to fit, but it wasn't too much work.
Hori-HRAP4VLX-DualMod04.png

5. Some in progress wiring. The way I had it wired is to have everything lead to a central barrier strip from the two pcbs. This includes signal lines from the HORI pcb (with diodes) and signal lines from the xbox pad linking to the new button and joystick wiring I hooked up. One thing to remember is that for back/select and PS Home to work, you'll have to intercept the signal from the hori pcb from the 4 and 6 wire headers at the top of the pcb. I used a jewelers sized flat head screwdriver to lift up the tab on the wire and pull it out. I then hooked up wire to that and had it go into the button array. Here's some in-progress wiring.
Hori-HRAP4VLX-DualMod05.png

6. Getting close. My wiring is still a rats nest, but something I will eventually clean up. However, EVERYTHING IS WORKING! If you noticed, I used pin headers to wire up the usb cable so I didn't have to cut anything up.
Hori-HRAP4VLX-DualMod06.png

The main reason why I wired it this way with a barrier strip was so that I could easily change out the Xbox 360 pad to any future dual mod pad that I need to without too much headache.

The mod in a nutshell - I believe - you need diodes on the signal lines from the hori pcb, you need a central point at which the two padhacks connect, and you need to do special wiring to the PS Home and back/select button to get those to work. If you don't care about those then you can just leave it as is.

Hope this helps anyone that's looking to give this a try.

Wiring-
=Clean wiring uses very nice quick disconnect ends and an IDE/PATA style ribbon cable from PCB to action buttons and 5 pin joystick connector

USB Cable-
=Wired
=Cable length (3m/9.8ft)

Unanswered Questions Due to Insufficient Testing-
To Edit










Hori-DoA5LR-01.png

Hori Dead or Alive 5 Last Round Arcade Stick
-Hori Dead or Alive 5 Last Round for PS4 & PS3
Not considered a Hori Real Arcade Pro by name, but is the exact same base and PCB as other sticks bearing the RAP in name
Spoiler:

More images (Promo/Stock/BoxFront/BoxBack/Bottom/Interior/PCB)-
Spoiler:

Hori-DoA5LR-02.png
Hori-DoA5LR-03.png
Hori-DoA5LR-04.png
Hori-DoA5LR-05.png
Hori-DoA5LR-06.png
Hori-DoA5LR-07.png
Hori-DoA5LR-08.png
Hori-DoA5LR-09.png
Hori-DoA5LR-10.png
Hori-DoA5LR-11.png
Hori-DoA5LR-12.png
Hori-DoA5LR-13.png
Hori-DoA5LR-14.png
Hori-DoA5LR-15.png
Hori-DoA5LR-16.png
Hori-DoA5LR-17.png
Hori-DoA5LR-18.png
Hori-DoA5LR-19.png

SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/194638/hori-ps4-ps3-dead-or-alive-5-last-round-stick/p1

Release Date-
=Early 2015 (February or March? Unsure of exact month)

Case-
Hori Case (New form factor upgrade from RAPV3/RAPVX/RAPV4 style where buttons are now on the side instead of on top/face)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Sizes DoA5LR - Width = 430mm, Depth = 237mm, Height (including lever) = 114mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
+PS4 touch panel on back
+Analog sticks mounted on front of stick (They are removable by opening up case SEE PHOTOS)
+Cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
=Vewlix layout with standard spread between joystick and buttons

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=No current 3rd party plexi options. Tek-Innovations may offer in 2016

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four small rubber feet

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons

PCB-
=Unsure if common ground PCB. May exist some type of dual mod issues where signals are held high/low if variable. Needs more research.
=Multiple PCBs (main PCB, side PCB, touch screen)
=Touch screen PCB is connected to main PCB using a small ribbon cable
=Side PCB, joystick, USB cable, and analog sticks are connected to main PCB using standard pin connectors
-Buttons are connected to main PCB by solder and glue

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment
=Cable length (3m)







Hori-HRAP4KAI-01.png

Hori RAP 4 Kai
-Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai for PS4 & PS3
Spoiler:

More images (Promo/Stock/BoxFront/BoxBack/Bottom/Interior/PCB)-
Spoiler:
Hori-RAP4Kai-02.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-03.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-04.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-05.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-06.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-07.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-08.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-09.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-10.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-11.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-12.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-13.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-14.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-15.png
Hori-RAP4Kai-16.png

SRKTT thread (HRAP4Kai)-
HRAP 4 Kai thread was merged with the HRAP.V4 thread.
Go to page 6 to see coverage for the HRAP 4 Kai. The first 5 pages are for the older base model HRAP.V4 and HRAP.V4 Silent
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/189004/hori-hrap-v4-announced-compatible-with-ps3-and-ps4

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Case-
Hori Case (New form factor upgrade from RAPV3/RAPVX/RAPV4 style where buttons are now on the side instead of on top/face)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Width = 430mm, Depth = 237mm, Height (including lever) = 114mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
=PS4 touch panel on back
+Cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
=Vewlix layout with wider spread between joystick and buttons

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=Plexi is available via Tek-Innovations.com

Bottom Padding/Feet-
+Padding on bottom
-No rubber feet

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons

PCB-
=Common ground PCB. May exist some type of dual mod issues where signals are held high/low if variable. Need to discuss with modders more.
=Multiple PCBs (main PCB, side PCB, touch screen)
=Touch screen PCB is connected to main PCB using a small ribbon cable
=Side PCB is connected to main PCB using two standard molex style connectors
=Joystick is connected to main PCB using a standard molex style connector
-Buttons are connected to main PCB by solder and glue
=USB cable is connected to main PCB by using a standard molex style connector

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment
=Cable length (3m)







Hori-HRAP4KaiSilent-01.png

Hori RAP 4 Kai Silent
-Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai Silent for PS4 & PS3
Spoiler:

More images (Promo/Stock/BoxFront/BoxBack/Bottom/Interior/PCB) COMING SOON NOT DONE YET -
Spoiler:
insert extra photos here

SRKTT thread-
Go to page 6 to see coverage for the HRAP 4 Kai and it's Silent twin. The first 5 pages are for the older base model HRAP.V4 and HRAP.V4 Silent
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/189004/hori-hrap-v4-announced-compatible-with-ps3-and-ps4

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Case-
Hori Case (New form factor upgrade from RAPV3/RAPVX/RAPV4 style where buttons are now on the side instead of on top/face)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Width = 430mm, Depth = 237mm, Height (including lever) = 114mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
=PS4 touch panel on back
+Cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
=Vewlix layout with wider spread between joystick and buttons

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=Plexi is available via Tek-Innovations.com

Bottom Padding/Feet-
+Padding on bottom
-No rubber feet

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick with optical PCB

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons with silencer pads

PCB-
=Common ground PCB. May exist some type of dual mod issues where signals are held high/low if variable. Need to discuss with modders more.
=Multiple PCBs (main PCB, side PCB, touch screen)
=Touch screen PCB is connected to main PCB using a small ribbon cable
=Side PCB is connected to main PCB using two standard molex style connectors
=Joystick is connected to main PCB using a standard molex style connector
-Buttons are connected to main PCB by solder and glue
=USB cable is connected to main PCB by using a standard molex style connector

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment
=Cable length (3m)





Hori-HRAPVHAYABUSA-01.png
Hori-HRAPVHAYABUSAv2-01.png
Hori-HRAPVSilent-01.png
Hori-HRAPVSilentv2-01.png

Hori RAP.V
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3 (version 1 - Kuro buttons)
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3 (version 2 - Hayabusa buttons)
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V Silent Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3 (version 1 - Kuro buttons)
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V Silent Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3 (version 2 - Hayabusa buttons)
Spoiler:

SRKTT thread-
Go to page 6 to see coverage for the HRAP V Hayabusa (version 1). The first 5 pages are for the older base model HRAP.V4 and HRAP.V4 Silent
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/189004/hori-hrap-v4-announced-compatible-with-ps3-and-ps4

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Case-
Hori Case (New form factor upgrade from RAPV3/RAPVX/RAPV4 style where buttons are now on the side instead of on top/face)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Width = 430mm, Depth = 237mm, Height (including lever) = 114mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)
=PS4 touch panel on back
+Cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
=Vewlix layout with standard spread between joystick and buttons

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
=No 3rd party plexi options yet. Tek-Innovations may offer in future

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four small rubber feet

Joystick-
=Hori Hayabusa joystick
=RAP.V Silent uses optical switches with a Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=Hori Kuro buttons
=RAP.V Silent uses foam pads inside the normal Hori Kuro buttons
=RAP.V Hayabusa (version 2) uses new Hayabusa buttons which have a matte finish

PCB-
=Common ground PCB. May exist some type of dual mod issues where signals are held high/low if variable. Need to discuss with modders more.
=Multiple PCBs (main PCB, side PCB, touch screen)
=Touch screen PCB is connected to main PCB using a small ribbon cable
=Side PCB is connected to main PCB using two standard molex style connectors
=Joystick is connected to main PCB using a standard molex style connector
-Buttons are connected to main PCB by solder and glue
=USB cable is connected to main PCB by using a standard molex style connector
+XInput is active on the PCB for HRAP.V Hayabusa (Version 2) and will likely be present on the HRAP.V Silent Hayabusa (Version 2) as well

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment
=Cable length (3m)










Hori-HRAPv4-01.png
Hori-HRAPv4SILENT-01.png

Hori RAP V4 - Hori RAP V4 Silent
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V4 Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3
-Hori Real Arcade Pro.V4 Silent Hayabusa for PS4 & PS3
Spoiler:
SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/189004/hori-hrap-v4-announced-compatible-with-ps3-and-ps4

SRKTT Definitive Hori RAP thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/196423/hori-real-arcade-pro-thread-for-all-versions-in-progress-could-use-your-help-and-input-v2

Modding guide/documentation via @Darksakul -
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/8852461/#Comment_8852461

Case-
Hori Case (Same as RAPV3/RAPVX/UMvC3/DoA models for PS3/360)
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Sizes - Width = 430mm, Depth = 240mm, Height (including lever) = 125mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
=Interior of case has plenty of space for mounting PCBs
=Must open from bottom (Which voids the warranty)

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Default artwork can leave a sticky residue when removing
+Tek Innovations does have plexi option (Same as V3/VX non-Kai)

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=No padding
=Four small rubber feet

Joystick-
=RAP v4 Silent uses optical switches with a Hori Hayabusa joystick
=RAP v4 Standard uses microswitches with a Hori Hayabusa joystick

Buttons-
=RAP v4 Standard uses normal Hori Kuro buttons
=RAP v4 Silent uses foam pads inside the normal Hori Kuro buttons

PCB-
=Common ground. Unsure if active high/low. Unsure if able to multi-mod without complications due to insufficient testing.
+Easy to remove main PCB from base
=Button signals/grounds, and USB cable are soldered to PCB while joystick connector and ribbon cables to Turbo/Home PCB are removable from main PCB

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=Wire and cord compartment








Categories-Madcatz.png



Madcatz-ALPHA-01.png

Madcatz Street Fighter V FightStick ALPHA for PS4/PS3
Spoiler:
SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/202351/madcatz-street-fighter-v-fightstick-alpha

Release Date-
=Unknown

SRK Front Page article via @d3v -
http://shoryuken.com/2015/08/31/mad-catz-unveils-street-fighter-v-arcade-stick-and-controller

Case-
Fightstick Alpha Case (New/Original Design)
=Weight (Unknown)
=Dimentions (Unknown)
=6 button Vewlix design

Metal Panels-
=Unknown

Plexi/Art-
=Unlikely to have any future plexi option due to case design (No where to screw in plexi and curved base front)

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Has some type of padding (Specifics unknown)
=Does not appear to have feet in stock photo (Unknown)

Joystick-
=Unknown

Buttons-
=Unknown

PCB-
=Unknown

Wiring-
=Unknown

USB Cable-
=Wired
=Unknown if cable is removable










Madcatz-TE2-Standard-01.png
Madcatz-TE2-GG-01.png
Madcatz-TE2-P4AU-01.png
Madcatz-TE2-USFIV-01.png
Madcatz-TE2-Rivals-01.png
Madcatz-TE2-SFVChunLi-01.png
Madcatz-TE2-SFVRyu-01.png

Madcatz TE2 USFIV/GGXrd/P4AU
-Mad Catz Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Guilty Gear Xrd -SIGN- Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Persona 4 Arena Ultimax Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Ultra Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Ultra Street Fighter IV Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 for PS4 & PS3 Rivals
-Mad Catz Street Fighter V Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2 Chun-Li for PS4 & PS3
-Mad Catz Street Fighter V Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition 2+ for PS4 & PS3 (Ryu Artwork)
Spoiler:
SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/190326/official-usfiv-ggxrd-p4u-te2-thread

Case-
TE2 Case (Same on XB1/PS3/PS4/360 versions)
=Weight (Unknown)
=Width/Length/Height with Balltop (Unknown)
=Base consists of multiple heavy duty plastic pieces screwed together
=Interior of case has roughly 5.5cm of height space for mounting PCBs and/or storage
=Side hinge clasps are metal, front hinge clasp is plastic
+Hinges can be nice for replacing parts and storage for extra buttons etc
+Comes with reversible screwdriver flat/hex for maintenance needs
+Replacement sides and bezels offered on Madcatz website for customization options
+Same design/production base by major company for multiple consoles and releases means there will be plenty 3rd party customization options in the future
+Curve of base on back makes it difficult to accidentally press the arcade stick against an object and hit the Start/Select buttons
-Hinges don't clasp as solid as they should causing a small give with pressure

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
-Sanwa/Seimitsu screw-ins not compatible with Kick1 due to nut being in way of joystick mounting plate unless you pry up the end of mounting plate

Plexi/Art-
=Multiple types of default plexis depending on which stick was purchased and when it was purcahsed (Will be referred to as Old Plexi and New Plexi)
=Default plexi goes around the buttons instead of under them. This has both advantages and disadvantages as listed below
+All Default Plexi: Default plexi easy to remove for replacing artwork without having to remove wires/quickdisconnects/buttons
-All Default Plexi: Default plexi doesn't always sit 100% securely as it's not being held down by buttons
=Default Old Plexi is 1/8" thick in the center but 1/16" thick along the sides where the border/bezel sits on top
+Default Old Plexi: (needs advantages listed here)
-Default Old Plexi: (needs disadvantages listed here)
=Default New Plexi is 1/32" thick and is placed under the bezel
+Default New Plexi: (needs advantages listed here)
-Default New Plexi: (needs disadvantages listed here)
=Tek Innovations does have replacement plexi option 1/16 thickness that sits underneath the buttons and bezel. 1/32 thickness will be offered in future.

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Has a foam padding
=Does not have feet
+Good for lap
-Slides a bit on hard flat surfaces

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT

Buttons-
+Sanwa OBSF-30 and OBSF-24
-These buttons utilize clear rings that allow the button to rise and be flush with the clear top panel
-A few reported issues of stock buttons being shipped with broken or loose tabs likely due to rough installation during assembly.

PCB-
+Common ground. Possible to multi-mod.
+Removable plastic cover from internal USB plug allows removal of PCB easy which neutralizes any issue of short USB wires soldered to bottom of PCB.
+LED PCB (Basic) is offered on Madcatz website for customization options
+LED PCB aka "LVT3" (Super customizable) is offered by Paradise Arcade Shop for customization options
+Touchpad is present on the new SFV TE2+ model with Ryu art (Unsure if this will be common for future TE2 sticks)

Wiring-
+Clean wiring using an PATA/IDE style ribbon cable connector on PCB to 20 color coded wires (10 signal 10 ground) to buttons.
=Quick disconnects have a tab on them. This has both advantages and disadvantages as listed below.
+You won't experience a quick disconnect becoming loose due to the tab
-Pressing down release tab on each individual wire can be tough for those with big fingers and is much more difficult to remove than usual disconnects

USB Cable-
=Removable proprietary "ProCable" using a circular 5 pin DIN style connector. This has both advantages and disadvantages as listed below
=Screws into connector on back of arcade stick base. Can prevent disconnection of signal if cord is pulled which can be good or bad depending on situation.
+Removable cable
-Must order ProCable replacements from Madcatz. May have luck finding as "MLG ProCable"
=Replacement connector to make your own ProCables may be "Model PMDX-5Pin" (Unconfirmed)










Madcatz-TESPlus-Shadowloo-01.png

Madcatz Street Fighter V Arcade FightStick Tournament Edition S+ for PS4 & PS3
Spoiler:
SRKTT thread-
=Insufficient information

Release Date-
=Insufficient information

SRK Front Page article -
http://shoryuken.com/2015/12/03/mad-catz-unveils-line-of-street-fighter-v-arcade-sticks-fightpads/

Case-
Madcatz TE/TE-S base modified from original base (Unsure how different interior plastic mold base is yet)
=Weight (Unknown)
=Dimentions (Unknown)
=8 button Vewlix design

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
-Sanwa/Seimitsu screw-ins not compatible with Kick1 due to nut being in way of joystick mounting plate unless you pry up the end of mounting plate

Plexi/Art-
=No default plexi
=Plexi options from 3rd party supplies like Tek Innovations is possible but due to new turbo area may have to be remeasured
=If you choose to remove the turbo area, mount PCB in interior of case, and make buttons for Home/Turbo/L3/R3/Touchpad etc elsewhere on case, you could
get the existing TE/TE-S plexi option from Tek Innovations with no turbo area cut and it should fit properly. Will have to verify the joystick and button holes are exact same as previous TE1/TE-S models

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Unsure if has padding on bottom
=Does appear to have feet in stock photos

Joystick-
+Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT

Buttons-
+Sanwa OBSF-30 & OBSF-24

PCB-
=Insufficient information

Wiring-
=Insufficient information

USB Cable-
=Wired
=Unknown if cable is removable








Categories-ArcSystemWorksSanwa.png



Sanwa-GuiltyGear-00.png

Sanwa/Arc System Works Guilty Gear Xrd -SIGN- Arcade Stick (Unsure if official name)
Spoiler:
SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/194900/

SRK Front Page article-
http://shoryuken.com/2014/09/12/arc-system-works-and-sanwa-denshi-releasing-arcade-stick-alongside-guilty-gear-xrd-sign-console-launch/

Case-
Original Case
=One main plastic base. Does not have individual plastic pieces.
=Sizes - Width = 360mm, Depth = 280mm, Height (including lever) = 110mm
=Weight (2.2kg)
-Has open area cord compartment in back with no flap

Metal Panels-
=Has top metal panel
-Does not have bottom metal panel

Plexi/Art-
+Default Plexi
+Comes with 3 different pieces of art for under plexi
=Default plexi goes around the buttons instead of under them allowing easy art swap

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Foam padding

Joystick-
=Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT

Buttons-
=Sanwa OBSF-30 and OBSF-24
=Sega Noir Button Layout

PCB-
=No information

Wiring-
=Typical

USB Cable-
=2.5 meters








Categories-Venom.png



Venom-01.png

Venom Arcade Stick (Made by Mayflash?)
Spoiler:
SRKTT thread-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195434/venom-arcade-stick-ps4-ps3

Guide newbie thread on how to customize/mod-
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/202199/newbie-guide-venom-ps4-full-sanwa-mod-with-octo-for-116-uk-pricing

Case-
Existing retail photos look like same build to the Mayflash V2 arcade stick for PS3/360/PC
=Width = 320mm, Depth = 260mm, Height = 120mm
=Weight (2.1kg)
=Has cord compartment

Metal Panels-
+Both top and bottom metal panels
+Top metal panel has grooves for button tabs for easy install/remove

Plexi/Art-
+Has default plexi for custom artwork insertion
+Stock artwork isn't glued or attached to default stock plexi
=Same artwork template as Mayflash v2 - https://mega.co.nz/#!iUUQ0IYY!mYbNwtx3nUbrFTjXnUYf067g4lVwB-hDRMdfJzwppbA

Bottom Padding/Feet-
=Has a foam padding on corners
=Does not have feet

Joystick-
=Default Non-branded joystick of average quality with individual microswitches (Microswitch brand unknown)
=Default joystick compatible with Sanwa gates

Buttons-
-Stock Sanwa knockoff buttons of bad quality
=Microswitches use a Seimitsu PS14-G clone switch. It has a very similar feel, the same QD placement, and the same thin microswitch plunger as Seimitsu.
+Easy to replace stock buttons with any standard 30mm button

PCB-
=Common ground PCB
=Has 3 PCBs. One main, one for Start/Select/Turbo/etc, and one for LEDs

Wiring-
=Quick disconnects for action buttons
-Soldered on microswitches for joystick
-Stock joystick wiring to PCB is to 4 individual 2pin connectors and PCB has empty 5pin connector for joystick. This means replacing joystick requires splice of existing wires to 2pin connectors or usage of 5pin connector.

USB Cable-
=Cable Length (3m)
=Utilizes 5pin connector to PCB






















===Things I need to edit on this post include===
=Shitloads of pictures of each joystick from stock to interior to PCB etc
=More Information! FEED ME INFO! NEED MORE EXP POINTS FOR KNOWLEDGE LEVEL UP!






Avatar: The Legend of Korra - Book 4

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Original series is still dope.

Korra is just teen drama.

"Guilty Gear Xrd -SIGN-" Finally Coming to PC

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image

- New Character (Though it could be a millia reskin)
- Unreal Engine
- 3D Elements?
- ISHIWATARI
- SOL DUSTLOOPS

I'm hyped as all hell for this. Everyone wanted a new GG and we got it, GOD DAMNIT YES.

The new look is going to get a fair amount of hate. But to be honest I'm trying my HARDEST to care less.


UPDATE AS OF 27/07/2013 (British Format)

Loketests being held in Japan as of August @Akibahara

Dragons Dogma Revival

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Ur-Dragon_3258d7_3974550.jpg

K lets do this...

SRK Pawn PSN list
ill update more as I get PSNs lol, sorry M$ dudes

Crucades - crucades
Hetacom - hetacom
Martian - shadaloo_martian
Crotchpuncha - radiantsilergun3
Gasaraki - gasarocky
- gasagasarr
Rick Ross - rumbatub-li
Initial_R_ - initial_r_
Joshkaz - Kazkab
Black Jaguar - DJ_MuddButt

Bleach Thread 5.0 - Chair is OP, pls nerf~

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Bleach Thread v4.0 only had half the posts the 3.0 thread had, but since we're going to enter the new and "last" arc of Bleach, I figured it warranted a new thread and say good bye to 4.0. I believe when I was still a lurker to this site, 4.0 was made right around when Aizen just started to fight the captains and Vizards after his Espada pawns were defeated during the Fake Karakura Town arc. Had some good times reading and discussing Aizen/Kubo's trolling, Tsukishima's shenanigans, Ginjo's mindgames, upgraded Fullbringers jobbing, chapters with giant ass panels with as little dialogue in them as possible, and of course, Ichigo haxing it the fuck up.

And as some of you know, Kubo announced a 3 week break between the last chapter of The Lost Substitute Shinigami arc and the up coming chapter that'll be around this next Wednesday/Thursday but he provided some nice details leading up to it. Check out the scanlations for more details.

Credit goes to Estella May, czeliate, and BadExample from Bleach Asylum.

WEEK 1
Spoiler:
omake01001bleachasylum.th.gif omake01002003bleachasyl.th.gif omake01004005bleachasyl.th.gif

WEEK 2
Spoiler:
scaled.php?server=263&filename=omake021bleachasylum.gif&res=small scaled.php?server=43&filename=omake0223bleachasylum.gif&res=small scaled.php?server=641&filename=omake0245bleachasylum.gif&res=small

WEEK 3
Spoiler:
bleachasylum003001.th.gif bleachasylum003002.th.gif bleachasylum003003.th.gif bleachasylum003004.th.gif

Anyway, hope this new and last arc will provide this thread many more good times like the last one did...... since we're going to be here for 10 more years. :x

-- Weightlifting & Nutrition Thread -- v9.0 Optimized

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**Useful Links**
Men's Health detailed routine (very helpful)
Men's Health Fitness Forum
Diet Plans (for gaining, not losing)
Explanations of exercises
How to tone up those abs

Most of you probably didn't expect a thread like this from a skinny guy like me, but I don't think the old one still exists, so here's a new one.

Some beginning weightlifting suggestions can be found on these websites, such as this:
Great - you've decided to try bodybuilding. Perhaps you want to build mass, tighten up your midsection or slim down; those are all possible with strength training. Whatever your reason (and you should definitely write down your goals for starting and your realistic expectations of what you hope to achieve in the short and long term),m you should follow a clearly defined program.

Don't expect us to provide you with any so-called success; let's state for the record right now that some training methods are smarter and better than others, but nothing resembles a secret. Our role here is to teach and guide you through your first three months so that you can take your training to the next level and design a personal routine that meets your needs.

Is there one program that's right for everyone? No. Did you really expect that one routine would serve the needs of the female college basketball player who wants to make a more dominating presence on the court, the 45 year old businessman looking to firm his body and improve his health, and the young man interested in competitive bodybuilding? Every person who trains has different motivations, desires and genetic potential, and each must make his or her own adjustments in putting together a particular program. It's really not so difficult. But before you get started, here are some points you'll want to consider.

1. Get a physician's release if you are over 40 or have had any sort of previous injury or impairment.

2. Be realistic but positive. Assess your current condition and where you want to be in three months, one year and five years. Keep focused on your goals and know you'll achieve them.

3. Commit yourself to three months before making any judgements about whether it's working or not. The truth is, you're probably a bit impatient, and sculpting your physique takes time. Changes take place incrementally, but three months is long enough to notice some significant changes in strength and size. Persistence and dedication are characteristics that all successful bodybuilders have in common. Do you?

Designing Your Exercise Program

Before getting into your program, you need to develop an understanding of how and why you're building your exercise routine. Although we've gone ahead and designed a program for you, just about everything in ti can be changed depending on your particular circumstances. Your primary objective here, as a beginner, is to build a solid foundation - and not just any training program will take you there in an efficient manner. Study the following points to better understand your bodybuilding program.

Bodypart Training

Bodybuilders group exercises by bodypart and train one muscle group at a time. Working one are with 1-3 exercises ensures that you train it thoroughly. Experience says that this type of training is the most efficient for bodybuilding. (Circuit training, on the other hand, allows you to do movements for different bodyparts back to back with no rest in between).

Every major muscle group should be developed to prevent muscle imbalance and the risk of injury. The major muscle groups include legs (quadriceps, hamstrings, calves, glutes), chest, shoulders, back (Trapezius, lats, erectors), abdominals and arms (biceps, triceps).

Exercises

You can choose from any number of movements that target a particular muscle group, but beginners should stick with the basics to develop a solid foundation. The first exercise you do for a given bodypart should be a compound movement. (A compound or multijoint movement, unlike an isolation exercise, has movement at two or more joints and thus brings in a greater number of assisting muscle groups. Note: Some bodyparts like biceps, triceps and calves can be worked with pre-dominatantly isolation exercises.)

Some basic movements can be done in a number of ways; for example, you can do a bench press with a barbell, with dumbbells or on a machine. Eventually, you'll learn how to do them all and use the in your training arsenal.

Two similar exercises can target a muscle differently. For example, the bench press is a good exercise for most of the chest, but the incline press (essentially a bench press done on an incline bench) works the upper pectorals more effectively. When you put exercises together to form a routine, you'll want to include those movements that hit the same muscle in different ways. That's why you normally include 2-3 exercises when you work each bodypart.

Weights

During the first couple of training sessions, you'll want to go pretty light just to get a feel for how to do the movement correctly. After you feel comfortable with the form, begin adding weight.

Even an experienced lifted should always do his first set as a warm-up with practically no weight to flush to target muscle and connective tissue with blood. On the second set, add a couple of small plates and do the exercise again. Was it still east? If so, and assuming you used good form, add more weight. If you struggled to reach 12 repetitions, add just a little bit of weight. (Adding weight on successive sets is called pyramid training and is one of the safest ways to train.)

Continue adding weight until it becomes tough to complete 8-12 reps. Your goal is to train in the range where you reach muscular failure at 8-12 reps. Once you find a challenging weight, stick with it. So you'll become stronger and be able to increase the number of reps. Once you can do 12, it's time to increase your training poundage by about 10%. At this heavier weight, you won't be able to do 12 reps, but with time you'll once again be able to. Keep working in this fashion.

The principle behind this type of training is known as overload. It states that for improvements to occur, you must impose a demand on your muscles greater than what they're accustomed to (for bodybuilding purposes, about two-thirds of your maximal strength). Your muscles compensate for this strain on the cellular level by adding protein to grow thicker and stronger. At that point, the same load is no longer sufficient to induce further changes, more load must be added. That is, you must progressively add training stimulus to make continued improvements.

Keep track of your training poundage by recording your weights, sets and reps in a training log alongside a list of your exercises.

Some bodybuilders swing and heave, cheating for the sake of pushing heavier weights. Remember, the name of the game here is not weightlifting, but rather bodybuilding.
(to be continued)

The Official Toonami Thread: Fight tha powa!

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Go ahead turn to CN and watch some DBZ and watch tom do his thing!
What are your thoughts on this D:!

KOF XIV General Discussion - Feat. Kula, Angel, Billy, Ralf, King, Playable at Taipei Game Show 2016

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